I left Empire and headed out towards Traverse City, but on a car park just outside town, I spotted the most magnificent E-type Jaguar coupe, and went over to have a look.
The owner, said that he had restored four now, this being his fourth. It was a most magnificent concourse condition car. Just as I talked to him an equally magificent Triumph Stag turned up, followed soon afterwards by an immaculate 1959 MGA. These guys belonged to a Michigan British sports car club and were meeting for a ride out which had actually been cancelled. Jag man had arrived to tell and they told me that the classic British cars of the ‘50s, 60’s and 70’s were highly prized collectable cars in
the States, and their value and performance superior to the equivalent American machines. I gazed at, and inspected, these three vehicles for about 40 minutes. I could hardly believe that in one place, at one time, in wonderful condition stood together the three cars that I have most loved during my lifetime.I left, feeling rather envious, but none the less, having left some impression with their owners of another elderly British classic adventuring on a massive road trip on an American bike.
I left the British enthusiasts and rode north again up the small Leelanau peninsula to Leland, This is an area of beautiful small lakes isolated from the main lake , with a wonderful beach shore, and stretched out small wooden houses along the shore line and in the woods. The peninsula here is very wooded, and
riding down the small country roads with the sun shining through the trees was a great delight. It was less than an hour into Leland, a small fishing village which had been the largest fishing port on Lake Michigan in its day.
Leland has a beautiful Main Street, all wooden white painted buildings up a wide tree lined avenue. It is rather touristy, but still very pleasant, and the shops were appropriate and pleasant, without being over the top or rubbishy. I found a nice wall hanging for Daughter and shipped it to her. A little way behing Main street lies the old harbour, and there are still some of the quaint wooden fishermens’ hut there, where the fish would be traded, although, they are now selling trinkets and cheese and there is a sympathetically built Inn or Lodge on the edge of the weir from Lake Leelanau into Michigan. The water in the inlet was crystal clear, but sadly, rather than being able to report the shoals of beautiful fish, all I can report is old can, and boat rubbish littering the floor of the marina. I sat and had a coffee and watched the slow world go by for an hour, and then set off again.This little peninsula, about 20 miles north to south in all, is a small blind ended ride, and so I returned by the same route. The next stop was at Traverse City, for petrol, but other than seeing the huge harbour and marina which nestles in the west arm of the of West Traverse Bay, I did not venture in, and rode through on the coastal road through such lovely sounding hamlets of Elk Rapids and Torch Lake and Charlevoix, to Petoskey. Petoskey is a pleasant enough town, with a true centre, although the shops are very expensive and cater for the wealthy visitor more than the over-laden and slightly less pecunious biker. It is famous for
Petosky stones, which are much the same as the other variegated stones of the
glacial period around Lake Michigan, but it seems there were more of them here and many were heavily fossilised. One stone that does abound around Lake Michigan, and which I had never seen before, although I had heard of it, is lodestone, or magnetite, and I bought a small polished piece for Son, when I return home. The only problem with it is that it sticks to all my metal cans in the luggage, so I shall have to be careful not to lose it. Shops selling ridiculously priced polished stones and stone jewellery abound, and most of the others are expensive kitchen or living room, home furnishing type shops and boutiques. I stopped for a coffee and some breakfast here about 11.00 and was able to access the internet from the restaurant to read my e-mails. The upper end of the downtown main street is the most attractive with many late 19th century shops, mostly unadulterated by their modern interiors and trade signs. ( Incidentally, a word of explanation to fellow Brits; “downtown” is what the Americans call, what we might call, “up town”, i.e. it is the centre, the bit where it all happens. Actually, it is not always the centre either, just where all the main things go on. I had always incorrectly assumed it was the poorer or worst side of town, but perhaps I am on my own on that one and you all new already!)Pleased to have seen a lovely town centre, but without purchase other than breakfast, I escaped Petosky and headed across the short stretch of country for
the Mackinac Bridge to the Upper Peninsula, known to everyone simply as U.P.When I arrived there, I saw signs to a place called Michillimackinac, a helluva mouthful to conjure with, and which took several attempts to get to be able to pronounce. Michillimackinac is the old name for what is now just called Mackinaw City is where the main fur trading occurred for the whole of this region of the Great Lakes. There was a fort here, on the western bank of the peninsula adjacent to where the massive pillars of the bridge now stand. It was taken down piece by piece and moved across the lake by boat in the summer and sledges over the ice in winter to what is now Mackinac ( remember…
pronounced Mackinore) Island, where they built a stone fort to hold off the French more effectively.(Good boys these old English!) In the last 20 years, it has been excavated archaeologically and they have reconstructed the fort as it was in the 1750s in excellent and true detail. It was originally a French fort, and the French fur traders were there protected by their soldiers. The French were good at relating with the native Indians and trade was excellent. After the British took it, the fur trade suffered because the British would not give the Indians so much in the way of weapons and trade goods, and there were several rebellions by them against the British. At one time, a group of Indians took the fort during what had seemed like an innocent game
played outside the gates, and slaughtered all but about 15 of the soldiers. These they took captive and when the Reinforcements arrived, they had learned how to use a few of the French tricks and the relationship was became much better. The fur trade was immense because of the need for fur to make the quality felt required by European gentlemen for their tri-corn hats, and also for fur for clothing and boots and saddlery. The majority of furs were, beaver(most prized) racoon, mink and fox, and leather produced from roe-deer (buckskin) and bison. ( a bison and buffalo are the same thing, buffalo being a corruption of boeuf, the French for beef)At the expense of boring you all to death with a history lesson, the traders lived at the fort and bought in furs. They shipped those out to agents in Europe through men, called voyageurs, who came up the Lakes in the summer in 26 foot long, birch bark, canoes, from ships that had come to The St Laurence River. They brought all sorts of trading goods to barter with the Indians for the furs, cheap jewellery, cloth, steel and brass cooking implements which the Indians did not have, and knives and firearms and ammunition, intended predominantly to help them hunt more furs. The guys and their teams of men,took these canoes and their contents by river and carried it all across country where the lakes or the rivers were impassable. They took their cargo to the traders who sold them to the men who brought in the furs to trade with the Indians. The "fur getters" were called “hivernauts” winter travellers, and would set off in late summer into the wilderness for hundreds of miles visiting tribes and trading with them, returning with laden sledges in the early spring. The relationships seemed to have been quite good and for many decades everyone seemed quite pleased with the situation. Conditions at the fort, particularly for the soldiers were grim. There was an immense amount of bullying and the accommodation and duties were rough. The weather was hot in summer and very cold in winter. Officers and traders had wives with them and there were some children at the fort. Most men had little in the way of female companions, though some married local Indian women. Anyway, enough of the history. It is fascinating and so new to me that I was thoroughly absorbed by it. If you want to find out more, you can find
Michillimackinaw on the web. I met a young woman, in old English attire there, who was acting as a guide during her summer vacation from medical school in Boston. She had learned to “hand weave” which is a process of multiple plaiting, producing strips of woollen or cotton cloth about 2 inches wide, which could be used as edging, or belts, or sewn together to make larger sheets.The old fort and the fur trade history was a real surprise bonus as I approached the northern part of Michigan, and I set off about 1o’clock to cross the MackinacBridge which is a five point two mile suspension bridge across the Straits of Mackinac, which divide Lake Michigan from Lake Huron.
There is a two lane motorway on each direction, the centre lane of which is made up of a steel grating to avoid icing up during the winter. If you get on the grating and go at between 35 and 45 miles an hour, and look down, the effect as like the old rotating drum cine pictures….the grid disappears and all you can see is water. It is the weirdest sensation, as if you are flying 300feet over the Straits below on a motor cycle. I can’t say I liked it. Firstly, the grid takes your tyres somewhat,
secondly, the wind blows quite hard across the bridge and you really have to concentrate, thirdly, it’s bloody high up, and finally, it made me feel quite sick within a minute, so I came back onto the solid roadway on the inside lane! I was however a bit reckless, in that I got some photos for you, but none looking down…that was just beyond the call of duty!The upper peninsula is pretty flat and not nearly so beautiful in general as the mainland. It is very harsh extremes of climate between winter and summer, and in winter, there is much snowmobiling and hunting and it is almost impossible to get about by road. Everybody up there has some massive 4x4 truck (or two) and several snowmobiles. People on the mainland joke about those in the U.P. as being a bit odd and interbred and such stuff, but even if that is true, they are a very friendly bunch, even though some of their dialects are a bit difficult for an English ear. Everywhere on the U.P. is isolated. The roads there are basic, fully metalled roads only leading in and out of places and all of the few interconnecting roads being dirt track and unsuitable for my bike. I restricted myself a bit up here therefore to major places of interest, and first went the 50 miles north towards Whitefish Point, the most northerly tip, where there is a famous lighthouse on the southern shore of Lake Superior. The “scenic route”, highway 123, winds north and I took it. No problems for the first 10 miles, but then, alone, out of the blue, there was a road works sign. Here the road surface had been taken up entirely. Absolutely no tarmac on either side, just compressed gravel and gritty stones. I grit my teeth a bit, rode the clutch and the rear brake and cautiously ventured up it, rather like I have to on our own farm drive at home. Well the first mile or two were O.K., but by the time I returned to tarmac, TWENTY TWO MILES later, I really had had enough! Harley Davidson Electra Glides are not made for off-road riding and it is not an experience I would like to have again. Don’t ask me what the country was like here…I haven’t got a clue! I was exhausted, and it had taken me almost two hours to ride that stretch, always wondering whether I should try and turn around or push on, and with no indication of when it would ever end. At about 5o’clock, therefore, I turned off to a place called Strongs, where I had seen an advert for a motel. It was looking a bit stormy ahead, and I couldn’t face trying to hunt for a campsite now.
I pulled onto the main East West highway, the 28, and soon entered Strongs. I passed a couple of motels almost before I had realised on this very stretched out community and just about managed to pull up at the last one going West, situated on the north side of the road, “Clarke’s Mootel”. Spelt wrong, I thought,
but looks nice and tidy and clean, the best of them actually. I parked up and went to the office.Andy Clarke, a man in his early forties, greeted me as a biker.. “You goin’ to Sturgis” he asked. “Yes, I’m on the way, in a
roundabout sort of way. I shan’t be there ‘til the end of the week though as I’m picking up my daughter from Chicago for 10 days riding with me on 5th and we’re travelling via Des Moines and Sioux City”. “It’s 1.328 miles from here” he said, “there’s my sign on the shed out back. I usually put it out about now for those bikers passing through.” I couldn’t imagine anyone “passing through” Strongs. It’s a real out of the way place, even though it is on the main highway across the U.P., but it simply runs east to west and really goes from nowhere much to nowhere much else. “I’m goin’ to try to get up there for a couple of days on the Harley” he said “ but I have to close the business for a few days.. I have the Harley factory out back in the barn if you want to see it later.” I ‘ummed’ sort of acceptance, not actually understanding what he had meant. I took a room number one, offered at just $30-00, fifteen pounds, an absolute bargain. And it was! The room was clean and tidy and well furnished and decorated, with a pleasant en-suite. There was T.V. and coffee and a porch with chairs. In the corner there was a welcome notice, to “Clarke’s Mootel”, so not a spelling mistake, and it was signed by “Handy Andy and Cow Patti, the Clarke’s.” I looked at the sign on the roadway. The name was actually written over the painting of a black and white cow, and there were several such beasts as models around the front garden. Odd? I settled in and after I had got my things inside, started my stove on the porch to heat up a tin of something because the restaurant, a hundred yards down the road, closes at 2 p.m. daily after serving breakfasts and lunch. Not enough custom to open all day! While I was sitting there, I became aware of a family further along the row of white painted motel rooms. About 5 children, and then 11, were gradually gathering around the front of my bike. Slowly 6 adults appeared, their parents. I thought, to begin with, that they had come to look at the odd Brit sat here with his cooking stove, but when I talked to them, they started to say that they were waiting for the tour. I had hardly comprehend what they meant when Andy appeared. “Y’all ready then”? he asked. You comin’ too” he gestured at me. I readily agreed and we set off into the large grassy open space behind the rooms 
and his house and saw a large steel and wood barn, and what looked like two old western cabins and an old saloon. We went over to the barn first and he opened the door. We all traipsed in and were confronted by firstly a large sort of bar area and then suddenly by the original Harley Davidson Motorcycle Company shed. It was 
incredible. It was like being in Dr.Who’s Tardis. Here it was, absolutely spot-on perfect, down to the last detail including the painting of the name on the door. A total, perfect, life sized replica. Inside were lots of Harley memorabilia, and it felt just like it should. The barn was littered with all sorts of antiquaries, from old bits of bikes to signs, harness and tack, there was a bar constructed out of varnished deformed pine trees with great curly trunks and large nodes on them, a fireman’s pole, old garage signs, miscellaneous bike parts and two old Harley’s, and there, in the back, were equally amazing displays, a First World War Field Hospital tent and full kit, 
a trappers cabin, The Bates Motel, old cars and automated scary machines. The kids faces were mixtures of horror and delights as the various exhibits performed on motion detector switches. Giggles and screams and laughter erupted amongst us all. The other cabins were equally bizarre, a saloon with pieces of stuffed animals and antlers and tails hanging from the ceiling together with over a thousand baseball caps and numerous artefacts over the walls, slot machines, juke box, and a pool table. From the corner of this was a trapdoor which led about 12 feet down a shaft into a 5 foot high steel tunnel, like a fall out shelter might be, and this lead about 30 yards back to erupt at the side of the coffin in the Bates Motel. Lots more giggles and screams and 
wide eyes. This is not all. You really MUST go to the Clarke Mootel. It is not advertised, and there is no charge other 
than staying there. Andy is a perfectionist collector and fun master, and it has to be one of the most surprising and fun places that this 60 year old has ever stumbled across. Andy and his wife, Patti, have no children of their own, but entertain all the kids around and no doubt the adults two with their antics. They are the epitomy of everybody’s best uncle and auntie, and all credit to them both. ( Patti, by the way, was brought up on a farm and her brothers rudely nicknamed her “Cow-Patti”. She has always been known as that and has kept the farm association with the black and white cows, hence the “moo-tel”.I really enjoyed my stay there, the bad trip forgotten, and when it was wet the following morning, I booked in for a second night and Andy kindly allowed me to clean my bike in his barn, in front of the H-D factory!
As the weather picked up, in the afternoon, I sat on the porch drinking coffee and an ATV pulled up in front of me. On it sat a chap, with along white beard and flowing white hair, for all the part of Santa Claus if it hadn’t have been wearing cross braced dungarees and it had not been the middle of summer. If he had havd climbed off with a bottle of moonshine or off-loaded a pile of furs from the back, I should not have been in the least surprised. He introduced himself as Norman; he had been born and lived all his life in the U.P. He must have been about 70, but he
was ageless. I asked him how he coped now he was older in the U.P. winters. “Aw” he said, there’s them as comes up here and does nothin’ and moans about the cold and then leaves, but the secret is to do things” He went on to explain that snowmobiling was quite an active activity and one did not get cold, doing that, or hunting, or fishing through ice holes or tracking, or skiing, and winter soon passed that way, and it was warm and cosy with the logs fires in the houses and with the strong community spirit there. He told me he liked reading a lot, especially cowboy stories, and his favourite author was one, Louis L'Amour He said I should read them. He insisted on going back to his house to bring me a couple, and soon kindly returned with “Hondo”, endorsed by John Wayne as the best western he had ever read. Thank you Norman, I have now read it, and John Wayne is definitely right about Hondo. The knowledge and description used by the author shows an intimate knowledge understanding and full research of the old west, and his story rings live and true. I was rather put off by his name originally, he sounds more likely to be the author of those type of "pink lady's books" of Saturday afternoon love in the Accident and Emergency Department. Oh well, 
never judge somebody by their name or a book by its cover!Finally, to end my stay at The Clarke Mootel, that evening brought a massive electric storm, spectacular to watch, but only from the front window of the room!On 28th July, I set off in better weather to Paradise and Whitefish Point. In Paradise, I found a fascinating blacksmith’s shop, which was almost exactly as it had been for the last 150 years. The blacksmith was a local volunteer, a retired Methodist Minister who had done some training when he retired and now worked there part time and was actually teaching a new young man recruit. Inside there were all the xpected tools of the trade, but in
addition, because the work had been so closely associated with wheelwrights and coopers, there were all the tools associated with these trades too and it seems they often worked together in the same large
shop, especially on making carts and wagons. Finally up to Whitefish Point, where there is a famous lighthouse, now automated, but overlooking the most northern point of the U.P. on the southern shore of Lke Superior. Off this coast, in the last 100 years there have been over 
522 serious wrecks, due to the severe weather and the fog. Lake Superior, the legendary “gitchegooma”, “the shining big sea water” from the story of Hiawatha, is enormous, to all intent and purpose, it acts like any major sea. Storms can be severe with tempest strength storms and the highest of seas. The Lake is extremely deep, and extremely cold,
too deep for anything other than unmanned automatic submarines to explore, and many of the wrecks are still lost in the depths. The huge boats that pass the narrow straits here have carried everything from passengers and furs to large containers and iron ore, the latter being a cargo that has many times taken a boat to the bottom, the last one in 1976. I was just overwhelmed by the beauty of the beach here. The weather was wonderful, which, no doubt enhanced it, but the beach with start bleached old tree trunks, the remaining stanchions of the old wooden dock, the multi coloured pebbles of the beach and the dunes. It was just about the most beautiful beach I 
can remember. God had sculpted the patterns and natural beauty of the combination of all these things in 
just about the most perfect combinations of starkness and warmth together. Really worth the ride up here by itself. But, then there is also the extensive museum surrounding the wreck history, and excellent record of the old trades and old tragedies at this area, highlighted for me, by the wreck hall and the inside of the original lighthouse keeper’s house, exactly as it was when it was 
last occupied. The story of the last keeper and his wife is one of dedication, family devotion and isolation. His children had recorded some of the details and history of their lives there which makes the records so vibrant.As I was leaving Whitefish Bay, I phoned daughter. It seems that she cannot get the time out of work to come over after all, so, I had to re-think my plans. There was no point in staying up here much longer, I could get straight off and down to Milwaukee earlier and then away to Sturgis to arrive at the beginning of Bike Week, rather than the end. I resolved to see the last main feature I wanted to visit here and then head out south again as fast as I could. Before going, I had to see
the Tahquamenon Falls, mentioned in the Hiawatha poem. This was were the young Hiawatha built a hunting canoe from the traditional birch bark, before he went out to be tested by the Fish and sea gods. [ I had to learn some of this enormous poem when I was about 
ten. I never read much more of it, but I now realise that it is an absolute epic account of the legendary Indian chief. The only bit I remembered at all were the first four of the following lines. I never understood what the first two lines referred to until I was actually here in The Hiawatha National Forest, and actually saw Lake Superior. I will put these few lines at the end for those of you who may like to see them, and also the reference to Tahquamenon Falls. I will also refer you to the web page where you can read it all if you can pluck up the courage! (www.theotherpages.org/poems/hiawatha.) ]But, back to the Falls. Actually a little disappointing because the water was very low and so the whole area was a little less
rushing and vibrant than it might have
been, and also a lot safer, so lots of people were scrabbling about over them and the atmosphere was a bit destroyed really. But, at least they were largely natural and the beautiful dark forest was still all around them, and I took some evocative photographs. I was astonished that there was not more being made of the association with the poem. The gift shop sold the usual national park things, like hats and tee-shirts and calendars and pens and egg timers and suchlike and a whole host of polished stones and cheap jewellery and fake Indian memorabilia, but nobody there seemed to know much about Hiawatha at all, and there was only one small pamphlet in the gift shop that was sold with just the relevant chapter of the poem, taken totally out of context. I acknowledge that it is a bit much to expect everyman in the street to be familiar with the writings of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, even though he is, arguably, the most famous of American poets, but after kindly,though rather naughty enquiry, of several people, I was told that Hiawatha was “a cartoon character”, “the name of the National Park”, “the Indian word for waterfalls”, and, closer to the mark, “some Indian fella”. I felt a bit of a self righteous,‘literature nerd’ even though I certainly could not remember the whole poem by any means, and so just left it at that, reading the whole poem on the web site in the evening.I went to get some coffee from the café. Outside there was a boardwalk with canopies and tables and I sat to drink it thre and contemplate the falls and the forest. I had just been sat for a few minutes when a squirrel caught my eye. It was foraging for bits left by us tourists. It ran under the edge of the boardwalk where I was sitting and suddenly, from right underneath me, there was a tremendous rattling noise, like the shaking of maraccas, followed by a squeak and the squirrel shot out from underneath and across the path up a tree. I knew that noise instantly. There was absolutely no mistaking it. I have heard that noise so many times in the cowboy films that I knew immediately that there was a rattlesnake under the boards, actually, to be precise, right under the boards, right under my table. I sat for a second and look at the cracks between the boards. Only about an inch. The boards were about six inches off the ground. No snake was going to decide to come upwards through these boards, that was for certain, but I was concerned because there were children playing nearby and some dogs walking about with their owners. I thought I had better report it to the café, so I went inside and quietly pulled one of the staff members on one side. She took it very seriously and went to talk with the manager, who phoned a warden. After about five minutes, he came out to were I was sitting, now some distance away from the boardwalk. “It’s O.K.” he said. The ranger says now to worry as we don’t have rattlers here in the park.” Well, I’m very sorry for worrying you about it,” I said “but I could not have confused that noise and the reaction of the squirrel with anything else, it was an absolutely unmistakable sound”. What you heard was just a Michigan Rattler” he said. “But you’ve said you don’t have rattlesnakes” I replied. “Well, apparently we do” he admitted, but the ranger said they are only small and not very dangerous. We’ll just leave him where he is and not disturb him”
I left it at that, and finished my coffee rather quickly. I don’t think the squirrel believed what the ranger had said, and frankly, I’m not too certain that I did either! Had I been Hiawatha, I would probably have caught him and put him on my war bonnet. As it was, I left him and continued on my own epic adventure westwards out of the Upper Peninsula.
Best wishes,
Doc
By the shores of Gitche Gumee, By the shining Big-Sea-Water, Stood the wigwam of Nokomis, Daughter of the Moon, Nokomis. Dark behind it rose the forest, Rose the black and gloomy pine-trees, Rose the firs with cones upon them; Bright before it beat the water, Beat the clear and sunny water, Beat the shining Big-Sea-Water.
There the wrinkled old Nokomis Nursed the little Hiawatha, Rocked him in his linden cradle, Bedded soft in moss and rushes, Safely bound with reindeer sinews; Stilled his fretful wail by saying, "Hush! the Naked Bear will hear thee!" Lulled him into slumber, singing, "Ewa-yea! my little owlet! Who is this, that lights the wigwam? With his great eyes lights the wigwam? Ewa-yea! my little owlet!"
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